Winter In Dresden: City Guide and Christmas markets

Hallo and welcome to Dresden!

Winter in Dresden feels like stepping into a carefully crafted stage set: baroque facades softened by winter light, cloudy skies reflecting on the Elbe, and the quiet hum of trams gliding through the city. Add Christmas markets, mulled wine warming your hands, and a deep-rooted tradition of craftsmanship, and you have a destination that truly comes into its own in the colder months. Dresden doesn’t shout, it glows.

Dresden at a glance

Often called Florence on the Elbe, Dresden is the capital of Saxony and one of Germany’s most elegant cities. Heavily destroyed during WWII and meticulously rebuilt, it is a city where history, loss and rebirth coexist in a way that feels both powerful and surprisingly gentle. In winter, Dresden slows down just enough to let you notice the details: stone meeting sky, soft lights in historic squares, and a festive atmosphere that never feels forced.

An evening with the lantern lighters

One of the most atmospheric experiences you can have in Dresden is the evening tour with the Laternenanzünder (lantern lighters). The tour is conducted in German, and while that might sound intimidating, it’s actually part of its charm. If you have a B2 level or higher, you’ll be able to follow along and enjoy the stories, humor and historical anecdotes that come alive as the old lanterns are lit one by one.

Even if your German isn’t perfect, the rhythm of the walk, the glow of the city, (the complementary Schnaps), and the sense of stepping back in time make it memorable. I genuinely hope an English version will be introduced one day, this is one of those experiences that deserves to be shared more widely.

Christmas markets: Dresden’s winter heart

Dresden takes Christmas markets seriously, and it shows. Each one has its own character, mood and pace, making it worth visiting more than just one.

This is one of the oldest Christmas market in the world. Almost 600 year old!

Striezelmarkt

The Striezelmarkt is one of the oldest Christmas markets in Germany and among the oldest in the world, first mentioned in 1434. It feels wonderfully traditional: wooden stalls topped with decorated roofs - so you can clearly see where to go to get mulled wine -, regional crafts, towering Christmas pyramids and the unmistakable scent of Stollen in the air.

What struck me most was the atmosphere, even in November, everyone already seemed fully in the Christmas spirit.

• When: usually from late November until Christmas Eve

• Why go: history, tradition and that rare feeling of being part of something centuries old

Neumarkt Christmas Market (by the Frauenkirche)

Set around the Frauenkirche, this market is both lively and elegant. Great food, excellent drinks and beautifully crafted artisan stalls fill the square. One of my favourite details was an old‑time carousel that felt straight out of a nostalgic postcard... and the smell of garlic in the air, which somehow made everything even better.

• When: late November to just before Christmas

• Why go: for the location, the craftsmanship and the warm, convivial atmosphere

Frauenkirche, cake and small joys

The church with the large cupola, the Frauenkirche, is as stunning as expected, if not more. Needless to say, it features in countless photographs, and for good reason.

Nearby, I stopped for coffee and an excellent poppy‑seed cake (a personal obsession of mine) at Wiener Feinbäckerei. The man at the counter was lovely, the coffee was genuinely good... and huge. The kind of place that makes you want to sit a little longer and watch the city move around you.

Medieval Christmas Market (Stallhof)

This was the real surprise. I went more than once - by day and by night - and loved it every single time. No electric lights, people in medieval costumes, live music, open fires and hearty food served the old way.

There is an entrance fee on weekends, but even then it is absolutely worth it. It’s immersive, different, and unlike any Christmas market I had ever seen before.

• When: late November to December

• Why go: to experience something truly unique and transportive

Zwinger, grandeur and winter light

I went to the Zwinger expecting grandeur, and somehow got even more. It’s almost hard to believe how recently it was rebuilt. In winter, with the gardens resting and nature stripped back, the architecture feels even more imposing.

Under the cloudy sky, the grey of the stone met the grey of the clouds in the most dramatic way. And those green accents? They immediately reminded me of my beloved Vienna, familiar, elegant, reassuring.

Beyond the courtyard, the Zwinger also houses several major museums, including the Gemäldegalerie Alte Meister and the Porcelain Collection, making it not just an architectural icon but one of the most important cultural complexes in Germany.

Porcelain, ceramics and white gold

The Porcelain Collection deserves its own moment.

The museum is divided into two areas. Tickets are collected near the café area. A smaller part of the exhibition is located in another building — simply go downstairs and turn left. The main exhibition, however, is on the right and unfolds over several floors.

Here you travel through different eras, styles and colours: German porcelain, Chinese masterpieces, delicate figurines and richly decorated tableware. It’s a journey through time and taste.

You can also step out onto the terrace or enjoy a coffee with a view over the Zwinger, a perfect pause between rooms.

A short digression on Dresden and ceramics

Just outside Dresden lies Meissen, the birthplace of European hard‑paste porcelain. Once considered white gold, porcelain was a symbol of power, innovation and prestige. Saxony’s obsession with it shaped European decorative arts, and walking through these rooms, you can feel that legacy in every carefully crafted piece.

What to eat & drink (and how to warm up)

Winter in Dresden is all about comfort.

Drinks

• Glühwein: spiced, warming, and slightly different at every stall

• Feuerzangenbowle: stronger, theatrical and perfect for cold nights

• Punsch: fruitier and often alcohol‑free

Food

• Dresdner Stollen: rich, dense and iconic (also great as a souvenir)

• Bratwurst (or any Wurst really): simple and satisfying

• Kartoffelpuffer: crispy potato pancakes

• At medieval markets: hearty stews and rustic bread straight from the fire

Why visit Dresden at Christmas

Dresden manages to feel festive without tipping into chaos. It’s elegant rather than overwhelming, traditional without being stiff.

And if you’ve read my other articles, you know this already: if you can, visit at the end of November or very early December. You’ll avoid the biggest crowds, enjoy a calmer atmosphere and often find better prices for accommodation.

Getting around

Dresden is a very walkable city, especially in the historic centre. That said, the tram network is excellent, frequent, intuitive and well connected.

Special mention goes to Dresden Hauptbahnhof. Functional, elegant and genuinely beautiful, it makes for a strong first impression - and first impressions matter.

Souvenirs & small tips

• At the official tourist information point, you can buy Christmas market mugs from past years.

• Like in many Christmas markets across Europe, I couldn’t resist getting one myself. If your luggage allows it, I highly recommend doing the same - practical, nostalgic and a perfect winter souvenir.

Practical info

Currency: Euro (€)

How to get there: Dresden is very well connected to the rest of Germany and to Czechia, which is close by, both by train and by bus. If you can book in advance, I strongly suggest the train for comfort, prices vary a lot, though, so if you’re travelling on a budget, the bus is a good alternative (it departs from behind the main railway station).

I arrived from Zurich by night train, an experience I always love for longer distances. If this way of travelling intrigues you, you can read more about it in my article on night trains across Europe.

Where to sleep

Staying in or near the Altstadt or Neustadt is ideal for easy access to markets and sights. Dresden offers everything from boutique hotels in historic buildings to modern, well‑priced options slightly outside the centre, all efficiently connected by tram.

I was on a tighter budget than normal, seeing how it was an interrail trip across Central Europe, so I booked a room at Prize by Radisson, I do suggest checking out Motel One (which has a lot of availability and a great position).

Dates for 2026

• While dates aren't out yet, the markets normally take place between the 3rd week of November and December 24th.

Winter suits Dresden. Slow, luminous and quietly festive, it’s a city that rewards those who come not just for the markets, but for everything around them.

Ciao ciao, e al prossimo viaggio!